A hidden beach in Thailand

(Travel + Leisure) -- Many beaches in Southern Thailand are overrun with Western travelers, but the quiet stretch of powdery sand known as Rai Lay, on Krabi Island -- only accessible by boat -- is an exception. Its towering limestone cliffs and tropical foliage, and the crystal-blue waters of the Andaman Sea, make this low-key hideaway a romantic alternative to places like Phuket.

Where to stay

Bordered by beaches on three sides, the 26-acre Rayavadee (66-75/620-7403; doubles from $1,127) is made up of 103 airy two-level bungalows -- some set in the jungle and others overlooking Phranang Beach. Sand Sea Resort (66-75/622-609; doubles from $65) has 68 simple, breezy bungalows steps from the water.

Where to eat

Yum talay (spicy seafood salad) and chu chi goong (prawns in red curry) are the dishes to order at Krua Phranang, the seaside restaurant at the Rayavadee. At sunset, sip a coconut cocktail at the Grotto restaurant, tucked into a limestone cliff. And don't skip the fresh food grilled by locals right on the beach: corn on the cob, chicken skewers and chunks of pineapple.

What to do

The jungle trail at the southeast end of the peninsula leads to the palm-fringed Princess Lagoon, where you can take a dip at high tide. The more adventurous can paddle around in a kayak; you'll discover tiny caves, deserted beaches and the nearby Phra Nang shrine. Get a Thai reflexology massage, either the luxurious deep-tissue Thai Boran rubdown at the Rayavadee, or the $5 on-the-beach version.

Insider tip

If you really want this remote peninsula all to yourself, visit Krabi between May and October. Though this is Thailand's monsoon season, the daily short, dramatic showers last only about 20 minutes. E-mail to a friend

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