The narrow waterway which separates the Portuguese colony of Macau from China was once an important crossing point for those seeking economic or political refuge from the mainland.

Now, thousands of Chinese workers commute to Macau each day, while shoppers from Macau cross the border into Zhuhai, one of China's bustling special economic zones, to bargain-hunt in department stores. It is one of the busiest intersections between China and the outside world.

Thus, while fear and uncertainty grip Hong Kong as it reverts back to China, Macau -- established in the mid-1500s as one of East Asia's first European colonies -- has been calmly preparing for its change of sovereignty in 1999.

It is a startling contrast given their shared colonial histories and the geography: the much smaller Macau is located just across the mouth of the Pearl River from Hong Kong, less than 40 miles (64 km) away.

But Macau is a world away from Hong Kong in most other respects.

While Hong Kong's British rulers have repeatedly clashed with Beijing, there is little historical animosity between Portugal and China. In fact, Portugal offered to cede control of Macau as far back as 1974.

More recently, Macau's governor, unlike Hong Kong's Chris Patten, has made no attempt to introduce democratic reforms prior to the handover.

And there are no dynamic opposition leaders like Hong Kong's Martin Lee in Macau. Polls show about 90 percent of the population, about half of whom arrived from China in the past 15 years, supports the handover.